Whether beginner or expert, young or a little older: in the climbing gardens you will find the ideal training ground for everyone.
Via ferrata near Schnepfau
The short way to the entrance starts at the car park below the wall, on the north-eastern edge of the village of Schnepfau. Following the signs, it takes about 10 minutes to reach the entrance (after crossing a mostly dry stream bed). There are two routes:
Wälder via ferrata:
The difficulty level is C/D with two tricky D sections. A bit of fitness and arm strength and you're guaranteed fun on the exposed wall.
Abendrot via ferrata:
Over a block in front, a straddle step into the wall is the appropriate start of this extreme route in the highest difficulty level E. A portion of arm strength must be part of the game, it does not get easier and remains extremely exposed. A real playground for experts, but for less experienced via ferrata climbers this variant remains taboo.
Karhorn via ferrata in Warth
From the Wartherhorn saddle up to the summit, the Karhorn via ferrata east ridge leads continuously between difficulty level B and C. It is a great introduction for anyone who has always wanted to do a via ferrata. From the summit, the descent leads back down via the normal route on the south side. Advanced climbers can enjoy the newly constructed "Panoramaklettersteig Karhorn Westgrat" from the summit.
From the summit, the newly constructed via ferrata leads 600 m to the west. The airy and exposed ridge climbing requires a head for heights and sure-footedness, as the route is always between difficulty levels C and D. Professional via ferrata equipment and safe handling is absolutely necessary for this section. You will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the surrounding peaks and valleys!
Karhorn via ferrata east ridge: from the Wartherhornsattel entrance approx. 2 hours to the summit.
Karhorn panorama via ferrata west ridge: from the entrance west approx. 1.5 hours to the summit
Combination east and west ridge: from Wartherhornsattel approx. 3.5 hours
Access to the Karhorn via ferrata east ridge
Ascent with the Steffisalp-Express cable car, after getting off keep left towards the Wartherhornsattel (approx. 45 minutes ascent)
Arlberg via ferrata
The via ferrata is well laid out. Mostly exposed to the elements, the climbing is varied and almost always along the ridge, with constant ascents and descents. Alpine, difficult and strenuous due to its length. Several emergency descents help those in poor physical condition on the 2800 m long route. The intermediate descents are also alpine. In the gravel cirques there is a risk of falling rocks from following climbers. Snowfields are to be expected until early summer, especially in the gorges (intermediate descents) and the north-facing walls.
The Arlberg via ferrata, mostly on ridge route, is in the range of medium difficulty. Older construction, steel rope, strong rock anchors, few footholds (stirrups). Often exposed to the elements and demanding due to its length. The route is suitable for experienced climbers and trained children from about 12 years of age, provided they are properly secured.
Difficulty level in the via ferrata passages: about 20 % D, about 50 % C, the rest easier A/B.
Equipment: clothing and equipment appropriate for the alpine tour, with provision for changes in the weather, maps, climbing harness with via ferrata set, climbing helmet, adequate footwear, via ferrata gloves, possibly poles for the descent.
Special: Do not climb in unsafe weather conditions or when wet. Watch out for falling rocks and avoid stepping on loose stones.
GALLERY SLAB CLIMBING
Those who have deficits in friction creep can practise here: the very compact limestone requires standing on small ledges or sometimes nothing at all - force is of little help.
Access: In Au, directly after the gallery
Wall height: 30 m
CLIMBING GARDEN AT THE WEISSENBACH
A very special insider area. Not visible above the tunnel, the well-informed enthusiast will find a good 30 m high limestone slab with several routes in the 3 to 4 range and a small wall with several short but nice eights.
Access: The entrance is on the tunnel bypass between Au and Schnepfau and can only be reached on foot.
A former quarry exposed to the east, whose strong coarse structuring makes a wealth of routes possible in a small space. The varied climbs are very well secured, many routes are in the so-called enjoyment grades.
Access: Turn left towards Schwarzenberg after the bridge, stay on the road until you reach the climbing garden at the old Ach bridge.